May
24, 2021
I
don’t live in LA anymore. Twenty six years ago that made me feel
lost, rootless, far from home. Today 26 years later I call East
Oakland home and so it is. Like the LA neighborhoods I like, College
Court in East Oakland was subdivided in the 20s for small working
class homes built for the growing population of Oakland.
Before
development it was farmland and orchards. The Fruitvale train
station is two miles west of here and Mills College a quarter mile
north. The houses sold with restrictive convenants, no people of
color, no immigrants and Catholics probably discouraged. In the
1960s real estate predators were block busting in East Oakland. They
would move a black family, hope to start white flight, buy the houses
cheap and sell at inflated prices to the new Black families moving
in. Not everyone fled and this neighborhood like some Mid City
neighborhoods in LA was stayed diverse with a good mix of Black and
White families. Now it’s a neighborhood that’s beginning to
gentrify but still has a strong African American base. In the
gentrification cycle we’re not quite trendy yet and we’re not
urban pioneers.
We’ve
been here six years and it’s home. Like all of Oakland it is
probably the most diverse place I have ever lived. Not as latino as
I am used to from LA, but a mix of White, African American, Asian and
some Latinos. Mostly Americans, not immigrants though immigrant
neighborhoods are nearby. South of here, a more urban neighborhood
is Latino, Mam, Arab, and Asian and the barrio starts less than a
mile from here and Little Vietnam is less than 3 miles west.
My
11 year old Black Latinx Irish daughter is right at home here. When
we moved here friends from school or church came to visit the first
time they were cautious, East Oakland, even Deep East Oakland, but
were surprised at our neighborhood. It’s genteel, a quality I
think it’s retained for the last 100 years, no matter the color.
It
took a while for me to feel at home in the Bay Area. When I first
moved up in 1995 I lived in Mill Valley, a beautiful place, but a
place I never feel at home in. When my then wife Susan got a job in
Los Angeles, we got an apartment in Glendale where she lived and I
joined her for a week every month and I got an apartment near Lake
Merritt. Lake Merritt, Lakeshore, Grand Avenue and Park Avenue,
neighborhoods next to each other, is one of my favorite places in the
world. A library, a bookstore, bicycle shops, cafes, restaurants, a
kosher bakery, a vacumn repair shop, the Grand Lake Theater and
plenty more, wonderfully dense and urban. With the lake it should be
a tourist attraction, Japanese and Midwesterners enjoying California
at its best, but it’s not.
I
lived there a year. At first working at Juvenile Hall in San
Francisco and then a cadet at the State Parks Ranger Academy at
Pacific Grove. I’d come home most weekends. I moved out of my
apartment when I got a Park house at Mt. Diablo. After Mount Diablo
I lived in a Park house on Angel Island.
Six
months before I retired we moved off the island and I found us a
place next to Lake Merritt. The apartment was OK, the neighborhood
was wonderful. After a year there Suzette’s 17 year old son moved
in with us after living with his father in Florida. The apartment
was too small for us. Suzette made the move from Los Angeles to the
Bay Area when she went to Cal and lived in University Village in
Albany. For her home is that part of the East Bay, Albany/El
Cerrito and Berkeley.
She
found us a house in El Cerrito. The landlord was selling the house
in a year or so but planned to rent it in the menatime. That was OK
we were planning to go to Spain for a year. And then my
father-in-law convinced his daughter that was too risky and a year
and a half later when our landlord wanted to sell the house we went
looking for another one nearby. Suzette found us a house in a
development called Hilltop Green in El Sobrante, technically Richmond
but with an El Sobrante zip code.
Hilltop
Green was developed in the 1970s on land owned by Chevron Oil. It
is a bowl like glen below a bluff with Highway 80 above it and out of
earshot. It is spacious single family homes with apartment buildings
on the eastern edge of the bowl. It has one road leading in and out.
It is like a gated community without a gate. There is a Park and
community center with a swimming pool for residents. It was one of
the first integrated tract developments in the United States. Forty
years later it is still wonderfully integrated with a strong African
American middle class respectability. It was one of the nicest
neighborhoods I’ve ever lived in, neat suburban streets, a park, a
community center, and everything we needed a short drive away.
We
would have stayed there comfortably but our landlord raised the rent
nearly 10% after one year. There were houses in the development that
we could afford and we began to think we should buy instead of rent.
Hilltop Green has one big disadvantage we became aware of after we
moved in, there is a constant cascade of invisible pollution from the
freeway into the bowl where we lived.
So
we started looking, El Sobrante, kind of far away, Richmond, there
are good neighborhoods in Richmond in spite of its reputation, El
Cerrito and Berkeley. We had a wonderful real estate agent Anita
Jaffey, recommended to us by Karimah. We made a bid on house in
Richmond, acceptable on a nice block in a hard neighborhood. We
didn’t get it. We looked and looked. Berkeley was just too
expensive. The one house in our range was across the street from a
liquor store where the neighborhood leisure class loitered.
Like
everyone else we weren’t thinking East Oakland. My bicycle
explorations had taken me to neighborhoods like the Dimond and I knew
there were neighborhoods in East Oakland that didn’t fit it’s
reputation. We began to think of it as a real possiblity when we saw
a home near the Laurel, another one of those Oakland neighborhoods, a
cafe, a biycle shop, restaurants, a hardware store, laundromats and a
bank. The library was nearby, no book stores, but a neighborhood
nonetheless.
Affordability
was the key point and we began looking more seriously near the
Laurel. We made a bid on a house and almost got it. The last time I
had bought a house it was a buyer’s market or at least the owner
asked a price and the buyer bid below until the owner and buyer
reached an agreement. In Oakland in 2015 the owners offered the
house at a price that everyone knew was too low and the buyers
compete in bidding it up. It’s all done in a matter of days. As
buyers we had to bid high enough to get the house, so to overbid but
not too much. We had already lost two bids before we bid on this
house.
It
reminds me of the diamond dealers in some Central Asian trading
market who talk trash to each other with their right hands touching
under a scarf and they finger bid.
And
in August of 2015 we got it. I used retirement savings to make the
down payment and costs. And we moved in. We’ve been here six
years. College Court, we call it home.